![]() ![]() "This recipe is based on Joanie Zisk's at One Dish Kitchen. It is very bad form to quote oneself, but to quote my Rat-Onna-Stick instructable:. It will be easy to add them all together as required to make whatever date you wish. To produce future, different dated, designs I produced a TinkerCad model which had the base and dividers of the stamp, the cutter and the two different shaped indentation-makers. One wonder of TinkerCad was the ability to resize before generating the STL. Once the final size was decided on, the last stamp (and associated cutter) were printed. The the dividing lines used to separate the month and day from the year had been too deep and intrusive in the first attempt, and also too flimsy, so they were reduced in height but increased in width for this one. ![]() This turned out to be too big too, but did help to focus in on what would be a correct size. The first attempt at a proper stamp is in the lower-left of the photograph. It was a good way of seeing things in over-scale though. This was made in the default size from the TinkerCad model, but was far too large to make cookies (biscuits). Also on the top row was the first attempt at the assembled numbers. As discussed in "Designing the Indentations", the two test pieces for the shapes are in the top left of the photograph. The test, prototype and finished pieces are all shown laid out above. This meant that I had to mentally flip the stamp over as I was drawing it, which made my head hurt. I built the stamp in TinkerCad, but I made it facing upwards so that I could see the stamps. The photograph above shows the evolution of the design. Now that we know what 1951 looks like in cuneiform, we need to build the stamp to impress that. The months and days are a lot easier, because they can only go as high as 12 and 31 respectively. In the example piece of dough, the upper row shows three "six hundreds", two "sixties", three "tens" and a single "one". That is pressed into the dough in the first photograph, so let's check that it's right. Subtracting that from 31 gives us 1, so we need a "1" in the ones column. ![]() Taking only the whole number gives "3" so we need a "3" in the tens column. Taking only the whole number gives "2" so we need a "2" in the sixties column. Three times six hundred is 1800, so subtract that from 1951 (151) and then divide that by sixty, giving 2.51666. Taking only the whole number, gives "3", so we need a "3" in the six-hundreds column. To get the cuneiform representation of 1951, take 1951 and divide it by six hundred. Numbers in the "six-hundreds" and the "tens" columns are represented by left-pointing broad arrows (look like) while numbers in the "sixties" and "ones" columns are represented by downward pointing thin arrows (look like). If you watch the video given in the introduction, you'll understand how the numbers work, but basically, instead of thousands, hundreds, tens and ones, numbers are organised into six-hundreds, sixties, tens and ones. This was made for a friend who had recently had a birthday on the seventh of February, 1951. The first photograph above shows the set of indentations which I wanted for the stamp. I'm afraid that I can't credit the Instructible which gave the recipe for that as I've forgotten which one I used, but there are several and they're all quite similar. Testing was done into a block of home-made play-doh-like stuff. The two different test pieces which I printed out are shown in the first photograph.with the final shape shown on the right. The indentation shapes were mounted on other blocks in TinkerCad, sleeved in a hole to tidy up and then merged with a block at the bottom to give something for a hand to grip. This produced a single groove which looked too narrow, so I increased the angle-down to 22 degrees and than looked OK. This gave a nicely shaped dimple which looked good for the "ten" columns.įor the single numbers, I took a cube, rotated it up by 45 degrees to give a "V" and then angled one end down by 12 degrees. ![]() To make a stamp which impressed many different symbols at the same time, I needed to produce two different shapes which could then be duplicated in TinkerCad to produce the desired effect.įollowing from the method used by the lecturer in the video, I took a cube in TinkerCad, rotated round it by 45 degrees and then tilted it downwards a 23 degrees. The video showed the two different types of indentation being made by manipulating a thin rod and then pressing it into the clay at different orientations. ![]()
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